Hair TLC with Amla Powder

Recently I have neglected some of the good practices which keep my hair healthy. Over the last 3 weeks I noticed more tangles in my hair. Perhaps as a result of this I've also experienced more hair breakage than usual. So action needed to be taken to remedy these unwanted hair problems.

DIY Hair Trim 

I can not remember the last time I trimmed my hair. It has been at least six months. When my hair needs a trim its end tend to tangle a lot more. I decided therefore that a trim was the first step to take. Although I would have liked to go to a natural hair dresser to have my ends trimmed, I do not know one in my area :( . Therefore I did it myself. This time I trimmed my hair dry, having done some research on how best to trim natural Afro hair. Hopefully this will do the trick to minimise tangles.


Deep Conditioning with Amla Powder
I used Amla powder as a deep conditioner. Amla is a type of Indian gooseberry. It is known and used in Ayurveda tradition for its many benefits for health and beauty. The berries are dried and converted into a powder.The benefits of Amla include:

• Promots hair growth
• Controls hair loss
• Cures scalp infection 
• Controls greying of hair

Due to the above benefits I decided to give Amla a second try. I used it once before and was a little disappointed with it because it made my hair straighter (loosened the curl pattern quite a bit, I love my curls and did not want then altered). Also my hair felt quite dry following the treatment.  However,as my hair needed some TLC and I had half a packet of Amla Powder in my cupboard I put it to good use. 

In order to avoid the dryness I experienced the first time, I used my intuition and come up with a deep conditioning mix to infuse moisture to my hair. Here's may recipe: 

• 50gs of Amla powder
• 4 tbsp of runny honey
• 2 tsp of sweet almond oil
• 2 tsp of olive oil
• coconut milk (or water)

Place the powder in a bowl add a little coconut milk and start mixing it with the powder. Add a little bit more and continue mixing. Then add the honey and the oils. Mix some more until the powder is fully dissolved with the other ingredients. The consistency should be akin to chocolate mousse before it sets. You do not want it too runny to avoid it running off your hair into your face and neck. 

You should apply this paste to dry hair and leave it between 30 and 45 minutes. I used a plastic hair cup for the duration of the application to help retain heat on the hair. Then I washed my hair as usual. 

The result was much better than the first time. My hair feels shiny, soft and somewhat silky. The honey and oils worked well as I did not experience dryness post wash. Although Amla worked well to condition my hair, it did alter the curl pattern. I like my curls as they are naturally and for this reason I will avoid using it in the future. However, if you would like your curls to loosen a bit this is a great 100% natural product to achieve it.  

I found Amla powder at my local Indian shop for £1.09 for 100g. If you do not have access to a local shop you can get it on-line here.

Marisa X

An unintentional Experiment

Last week I ran out of Aloe Vera Juice. I only realised this on Sunday and the local health food shops were closed. As a result I decided to go without it for the week. That meant making my hair conditioner spray with water, vegetable glycerine and lavender essential oil only.  

Did the absence of Aloe Vera Juice made any difference to my hair?  Yes it did. I was surprised that my hair was much drier than usual. This is interesting as I kept all other aspects of my hair routine the same. So this unintentional experiment told me that Aloe Vera juice does make a difference in helping my hair retain moisture. 

As a result of this discovery I now value Aloe Vera Juice more. Yesterday I managed to pop to the shop during my lunch break, I bought the biggest bottle I found. Its was worth the £6.80 not to have dry hair. I've added it to the moisturising pray this morning and can already feel the difference in my hair. Welcome back moisture and softer hair!

Marisa. X

How to Detangle Natural Hair

Source

Mastering the art of detangling is an important breakthrough for a new natural because it breaks down the myth that Afro hair is unmanageable.  Yes, Afro hair is easy to manage when you know how to do it. Developing an effective detangling routine also contributes towards retaining length. The purpose of detangling is to ensure that hair strands do not clump together creating irreversible knots.

My hair is super dry and fine making it highly prone to breakage.  Therefore I decided to use the finger detangling method which works brilliantly for me. I rarely use combs to detangle or style my hair. My fingers turned out to be a very efficient comb!

 So what are the basics of natural hair detangling?

Ø  Always spray water onto your hair in order to add moisture and make it pliable.

Ø  Part hair into sections and detangle each section in turn.

Ø  Use your favourite oil and or conditioner to add slip to the hair. This makes separating the hair strands easier and helps to minimise breakage.

Ø  Then gently detangle your hair starting from the ends working up to the roots.  

Ø  Once all sections have been detangled wash your hair.

You can find a tutorial on finger detangling dry hair here. Here’s another one for variety.

I use coconut oil and Herbal Essences Hello Hydration conditioner to detangle.

You can also find a tutorial on detangling wet hair here. 

Remember the above information should be used as a rough guide. You need to observe the characteristics of your hair and use your intuition to figure out what works best for you. For example my hair is short so I do not feel the need to wash it in sections. In fact I tried this and noticed that doing so actually made my hair tangle. I detangle prior to washing and this is enough. I do not repeat the process whilst washing it. Post wash my hair requires minimal detangling. My experience of detangling to date has been fairly easy and not too time consuming.

Useful steps for easy detangling

Ø  Be gentle with your hair.

Ø  Use wide tooth combs or opt for finger detangling if it works for you.

Ø  Do not detangle when in a hurry as doing so leads to frustration and hair breakage due to excessive pulling.

How to minimise tangles

Ø  Untangle hair after washing before it dries.

Ø  Keep hair moisturised as dry curls tangle easier.

Ø  Keep hair in protective styles as much as possible.

Ø  If you wear your hair out, twist it or braid it in big sections before going to bed.

Ø  Thoroughly untangle hair prior to creating a new lasting hair style such as twists, cornrows etc.

 Naturals are there detangling tips that you can share with me?

 I hope this post is helpful Nogai. Let me know how you get on.

Marisa x.  

Wash and Go

The wash and go style is a simple and easy way of managing hair when one is busy. Recently I have had very little time to dedicate to my hair. Although, I knew about this style for ages I rarely considered it.


On Saturday I decided to wear a Wash and Go style to a party. Well, I had little time to dedicate to my hair during the days leading up to the party and it desperately needed a wash. Usually if I have a party coming up I wash my hair the day or couple of days before. This means that the hair is stretched and therefore is more versatile for styling in different ways on party day. However, due to lack of time I reluctantly resorted to the this style. I was not disappointed.

As the name indicate the style simply involves washing your hair and going out! So I washed my hair and allowed to drip dry naturally. I then added a little bit of my Shea butter hair mix to help retain moisture. I rolled a small front section to ad definition and styled it with a flower. It looked better than I expected. I will keep this style in mind for the future. The party was great so thanks Gabi.


I promised to do a post on how to de-tangling natural hair this month but have not had the chance yet. I will do it soon.

In the mean time keep loving the Afro.
Marisa.

My Hair Care Routine

The above are the main products I use for my hair. Apart from shampoo and conditioner I make my own products at home. It is easy and it works well.

Daily Moisturising Spray

In order to keep my hair moisturised and looking fresh on a daily basis I use a spray bottle with a few natural ingredients. To make your own you will need:

• A spray bottle (200 ml)
• 180 ml of tap water
• 4 table spoons of 100% Aloe Vera Juice (aids hair growth, natural conditioner, helps reduce hair frizz).
• 1 tablespoon of Vegetable glycerine (attracts moisture from the air into the hair).
• 3 drops of Lavender essential oil (lovely smell, calming).

 Place the water in the spray bottle, add the ingredients and give it a shake to mix them together. I apply this spray to my hair in the morning before styling and at night in preparation for going to bed. I use the spray lightly, the aim is to add moisture to the hair rather than making it soaking wet.  

Shea butter Mix (with coconut, Jojoba and lavender oil) 

After applying the moisturising spray I use my Shea butter mix. This help seal the water into the hair keeping it moisturised. I use the Shea butter mix according to need. When my hair is very dry I used it daily. Otherwise I use it every other day.

Shampoo and Conditioner

I use the Rainforest Moisture range of shampoo and conditioner from The Body Shop. This range is Parabens and SLS free so has none of the nasty chemicals that cause severe dryness to the hair. It smells delicious and work well for my hair. I love it.

I mainly wash my hair with conditioner. This is because conditioners also contain the cleansing agents found it shampoos therefore they will cleanse without stripping the hair of its natural oil. Many naturals use this method and it is often referred to as co-washing.

So How Long Does it Take?

Usually my morning hair care routine takes between 2 and 15 minutes depending on the hairstyle. When I wear protective styles such as Bantu Knots, flat twists etc. I simple moisturise my hair using the spray and lock in the moisture by applying the Shea butter mix. This takes two minutes. When wearing my hair out it requires styling and usually takes me about 15 minutes.

My night time routine will mirror the morning routine as protective styles take virtually not time at all. When I wear my hair out, before I go to be I apply the moisturising spray and twist my hair in order to prevent tangles. This takes between five to 15 minutes (depending on what sort of style I plan for the next day).

So there you have it. Contrary to what people say caring for natural hair is simple once you know how. 

Marisa. x

Beautiful Hair Meets Gorgeous Dresses

I love finding accessories for my hair. Usually this means flowers or cute hair pins which can elevate a hair style. Well, on a recent trip to London my sister Sara and I found ourselves in Greenish where I spotted an interesting looking Boutique called Sika. I noticed it because of a striking 1950s design dress with  African print.  We went in and there were lots of lovely dresses. I knew this would be a great accessory to go with my very African hair! 

The dresses are designed by Phyllis Taylor a British Ghanaian woman who wanted to bring the beauty of traditional Ghanaian fabric into contemporary British fashion. The results are fabulous and I had to treat myself. An early birthday present...  

The dresses are 100% cotton, hand made in Ghana by professional seamstresses. The company operates a fair trade policy which supports the local Ghanaian community. 

If you ever in Greenish its worth checking the boutique out:  4 College Approach, London SE10 9HY.

Alternatively you can get one of the lovely dresses from the online store. 

   When was the last time you treated your hair? :)

How to Develop a Healthy Hair Care Routine

One of the golden rules for growing healthy natural hair is “Less is More”(see previous post on Ten Golden Rules to Grow Healthy Natural Hair).  Your hair growth does not depend on you buying lots of products. It its tempting when you read hair magazines or watch videos on U Tube to think that you need to get the variety of products being recommended otherwise your hair will not grow.  Given the consumerist focus of our societies nowadays it is perhaps natural for us to think this way. I suggest that you catch such thoughts early and resist falling prey to the product junkie phenomena. Healthy natural hair growth is not so much dependent on the quantity of products used but rather the quality of what you choose to use on your strands. Here are three important tips that I have learnt about growing healthy hair:

Get to know your hair’s natural characteristics and tailor your products to suit your hair needs.

It was only when I went natural that I allowed myself to get to know my hair characteristics without fighting against it in unhelpful ways (e.g. relaxing it or excessive use of extensions to “manage its unruliness”).  Remember Golden Rule nr 1- Accept Your Hair Texture. This rule enabled me to fully engage in a process of discovering my hair’s characteristics. So I encourage you to discover your Afro:

Ø  Is your hair strand fine, medium or thick (what some people call course)?

Ø  How much volume does your hair naturally have? 

Ø  What is your curl pattern like?

Ø  What is the level of shrinkage that your hair experience in the presence of water?

Ø  How dry is your hair?

Your hair’s levels of dryness is important as the dryer the hair the more fragile it is and the more prone it will ten be to breakage. Find our about your hair’s porosity levels (the hair’s natural ability to absorb and retain water). See an informative article on porosity here.  All of the above questions will inform your decision making about how to routinely care for your hair and what products will suit you best.

Natural ingredients provide the hair with a good foundation to grow healthy and strong. 

Remember that natural hair loves natural ingredients. On a previous post I described three of the natural ingredients that I use for my hair. There are a plethora of natural ingredients out there to suit any hair type. Other ingredients that are routinely used to care for our beautiful Afro hair include:

Almond/ Sweet Almond Oil         Aloe Vera

Avocado Oil                                Cocoa Butter

Castor Oil                                    Honey

Olive Oil                                      Vegetable Glycerine

The above list is not exhaustive, the choices are endless. Find natural ingredients that work for you and stick to them.

Avoid using harmful chemicals on your hair.  

Too many hair care products contain chemicals that are used to help preserve and extend the shelf life of its ingredients. These chemicals often have been associated with health risks and also work against your hair in a variety of ways. These include stripping the hair of much needed moisture, clogging your scalp etc. I think that it is good practice for us to become more interested in the content of the products that we buy and to spend more time reading the ingredient labels in order to avoid unintentional usage of chemical and ingredients that harm our coils. In her book Going Natural Mireille Liong-A-Kong goes through a comprehensive list of ingredients to avoid here are a few:  

Ø  Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)- In hair care products these are used in shampoos as detergents and surfactant. They remove the hair’s natural creases, drying out the hair.

Ø  Parabens: Methylparaben, Propylparaben abd Butylparaben. Mainly used as preservatives to extend shelf life. These can cause allergic reactions if the concentration excides 5%. These have also been linked with a variety of health related problems.

Ø  Mineral Oil and Petrolatum- Mineral oil is a petrochemical by-product that coats the skin preventing it from breathing naturally. This leads to hair and skin to dry out. Petrolatum is a mineral oil jelly which has the same effect.

Ø  Alcohol- Ethanol, Denature alcohol Ethyl alcohol, Benzyl alcohol, Isopropyl alcohol should be avoided. As they can be drying and irritating to the scalp.  

I hope these tips help you establish a good hair care routine as much as they have helped me. Please feel  free to ask me questions, make comments and subscribe.should you find the blog useful.